Hotel Los Helechos, a perfect base for exploring the mountains in Topes de Collantes

By: cubaism Expert, United Kingdom Posted: 2010-04-10

The yin to the Kurhotel's yang, this hotel lies literally in the latter's shadow and offers a much smaller, intimate and – at first sight – more appealing alternative. Surrounded by woodland at Topes de Collantes, in the heart of the Sierra Escambray, it's a perfect base for exploring the mountains. Several hiking trails begin within a stone's throw of the hotel.

Weeds pushing up through the driveway and car park are a sign of things to come. Things begin well enough in the rather plain lobby, with its simple wicker reed furnishings. After hiking or horseback rides, you can do some laps in the swimming pool in a huge solarium, or realx in a steam room. But that's pretty much where the good news ends.This hotel is long overdue for refurbishing and is literally falling apart at the seams. And the basic meals in the restaurant will have you sighing in exasperation.

Expect no frills in the bedrooms, on three levels of this ungainly Soviet-era building, and fitted out with basic rattan furniture. Frugal is being kind. The mattresses may have you tossing and turning. The rooms are so damp that fabrics are musty with mold. And though bathrooms have been remodeled with modern fittings and ceramics, many electrical fittings are in disrepair.